Italian graffiti artists Alita and Wally create incredible pop-art-inspired stencil pieces like these. Via Changethethought.
Orticanoodles
Carnovsky's RGB wallpaper
Created by Italian studio Carnovsky for the Milan shop of Janelli & Volpi, this wallpaper featuring overlapping animal illustrations changes according to the color of light. Via CR Blog.
Giulia Garbin
Italian designer in Portugal Giulia Garbin has been up to some nice work.
Carlo Trevisani
Coffee and a cigarette by Italian designer Carlo Trevisani.
Riva Boatyard Tour
A Designboom tour of the amazing boatyard of Italian boat makers Riva. Crafting each boat by hand since 1842, they only produce about 20 of each model every year, resulting in a stunningly beautiful product.
Florence in a Day
I couldn't leave out Florence, the (more peaceful) little sister to Rome. After a few days in Rome, Florence was a welcome sigh of relief. As much as I love both cities, Florence is slightly less tourist-crammed and intense, kind of like the San Francisco to Rome's New York. The entire city is walkable, so you get more of a feel of the city and its unbelievable beauty.
This time I'll be giving you several possibilities of things you could do with a day in Florence, narrowed down from a list of my favorites, and once again, I'll start off with lodging:Le Stanze di Santa Croce - This quaint little B+B in the heart of Florence, next to the Basilica di Santa Croce (a 13th century Franciscan church) is run by the unbelievably welcoming and helpful Mariangela Catalani, a chef, choir singer, traveler and incredible hostess. Every morning at breakfast, she asks about the previous day, and what you plan to do next, always offering amazing suggestions and advice to make your trip that much better. She also offers cooking classes in the kitchen, and will even escort you to the local market to pick out fresh foods she'll help you prepare for lunch. I can't say enough about her excitement and willingness to do anything to enhance your trip, and the rooms are equally perfect. Located on Via delle Pinzochere, 6.
The restaurant I'm recommending is in this same neighborhood, suggested by Mariangela when we asked for extremely traditional local fare.
Ristorante del Fagioli - I simply can't say enough about this establishment. The second you walk in the door, you know you're in for the experience of a lifetime. Peeking into the kitchen as you walk to your seat, an elderly Italian chef bends over hulking pots of simmering goodness, barking orders to his younger counterparts, who immediately jump to ladle sauces that look like they've been boiling in that same kitchen for centuries. The menu is in Italian only, so we asked the waiter (Antonio in the video above) for suggestions, after which he proceeded to bring out plate after plate of random samples, each tasting better than the last. Ribollita, Involtini, Pappa al Pomodoro! So many dishes I'll be attempting to relive in our home this summer, and likely until we return to del Fagioli. Reservations are required, as they only seat their small dining room a maximum of twice a night (dinner only), don't miss this one or you won't know what you're missing! Located on Corso dei Tintori, 47.
Now for a few suggestions of must-see attractions:1. The Florence Cathedral and Campanile Tower - Designed by Giotto in the 14th century, the Campanile Tower is a 280-vertical-foot monstrosity next to the Florence Cathedral (a massive beast of its own). Not for the Acrophobic or Chlostrophobic, 414 steps inside the tower wind upward through a narrow tunnel to several viewing decks within the structure, culminating on the roof in the most breathtaking view of the city you can find. Worth the burning thighs and shortness of breath, though you're not going to feel up to much walking after this one!
2. Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio - an indoor/outdoor market that's been a gathering point for locals since 1873, you can find everything from textiles to produce to meat and fish, including "traditional" fare for the more adventurous of eaters (tripe sandwich, anyone?).
3. Piazzale Michelangelo - Definitely not an attraction to be attempting the same day as the Campanile Tower above, Piazzale Michelangelo offers sweeping views of the river and entire city of Florence, after an invigorating climb of course! Recommended as a "Place for the lovers" by a helpful taxi driver.
4. Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte - Located directly behind Piazzale Michelangelo, the Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte is an 11th century cathedral and cemetery overlooking the whole of Florence. Definitely the spookiest (and coldest) church I entered in my stay in Italy (where there are a whole lot of churches), there was no interior lighting other than that which trickled in from the windows near the roof. You definitely get a sense of how the monks, who have inhabited the building since its construction, experienced places like this before electricity.
5. The Scuola del Cuoio (leather school) of Florence - Located inside the Basilica of Santa Croce, the leather school was formed after WWII by Franciscan monks in order to teach a trade to orphans of the war. Using natural materials and methods handed down by Franciscan artists over centuries, the students are still taught today how to craft leather goods by hand using materials such as eggs, olive oil and gold leaf. These guys aren't messing around. We watched a brief demonstration by one of the students and were awestruck at the ease with which he manipulated the materials to create an intricate pattern in gold leaf. A must see, even if you don't buy anything in the shop, it's worth seeing the process and final product of centuries of knowledge.
6. The town of San Gimignano - A simple bus trip from Florence, San Gimignano instantly transports you to the Tuscany that we all envision when we think of Italy: vineyards, country cottages and tiny stone-walled towns atop hills. Take a walk outside the city walls to be swept into a Disneyesque world of chirping birds, blooming flowers, laundry hung on the line, green grass and endless vineyards. A welcomed breath of fresh air (literally) from the tourist throngs. Also the best shopping of the trip, especially if you're into good wine, olive oil, and handmade ceramics.
Well, that's it folks! My trip to Italy in a nutshell (or you could say, "The Best Parts"). Even if you aren't planning a trip to Italy anytime soon, I hope this inspires the need to get up, get out, and experience the world....someday.
Viva Roma!
Well, I'm finally back from my trip to Italy, and while I can't say I'm super-psyched about being done with vacation, I am excited about sharing a few finds with my readers who may be lucky enough to visit themselves. Italy is a place full of people who are passionate and take great pride in everything they do, as evidenced by the best-dressed taxi drivers in the world. They also take their craftsmanship seriously, which is why anything created in the last 200 years in Italy is considered new. I don't think I encountered a single piece of fiberboard, veneer, linoleum or plastic during my entire trip.
As both the geographical and historical center of Italy, I'm going to start with Rome. Everyone knows the obvious attractions (the Colosseum, Pantheon, Vatican, etc.) so I thought I'd give a few recommendations of some of the less obvious places of interest based on my personal experiences and the advice of some incredibly helpful and enthusiastic locals.
First up; where to stay. My wife and I were given two suggestions by a friend who grew up there, and we actually ended up staying both places on different occasions on our trip. Both of these establishments are fantastic, with incredibly helpful and available staff (and showers that I can fit in, which is rare in Italy!) and both are located within walking distance of most attractions you'll want to see while in Rome.1. B+B Trevi Roma - A small, family-run B+B with a downstairs restaurant (which is fantastic as well). While located near the tourist-packed Trevi fountain, you can't get a more central location with more peaceful surroundings. By far the largest room we stayed in. Located on Via del Lavatore, 83.
2. Hotel Campo De Fiori - A midsized, modern hotel with all the extras. The room was a bit smaller, but the incredible rooftop terrace with views of all of Rome made it more than worth it. Honestly, I would've stayed in a tent if it came with that terrace. Also incredibly centrally located in the Campo De Fiori neighborhood. Located on Via del Biscione, 6.
When you're settled, you'll undoubtedly be hungry (if you're coming from the states, you'll have been on a plane for at least ten hours) and Rome is one of the best possible places to find yourself with a case of severe hunger. First, a few tips: 1. Never eat in a restaurant on one of the main piazzas of the city. These establishments are generally geared toward the tourist, offering less traditional and authentic fare at a higher price. Get lost on a back alley and find a place with a menu displayed only in Italian, full of dishes you've never heard of. You'll thank me later. 2. Particularly for Americans, service can seem slow, inattentive and downright frustrating. The constant checking in we're used to from our servers would be insulting and rude in Italy. Get used to flagging down servers for the check, because they'll assume you're enjoying your meal and present company, letting you sit hours on end with nothing but empty dishes at your table. Once you've acclimated yourself to the Italian pace of life, however, you'll wish that Americans viewed the process of cooking and eating the same way. Beyond that, I have a couple of recommendations, but truthfully I didn't have a single meal I wasn't thrilled with. Follow the above suggestions and you really can't go wrong. (Oh, and a bottle of good local wine is like 5 US Dollars...incredible).1. Trattoria "Antonio" - A tiny space (so small that they store produce and meats literally anywhere they can find a spot, including in the entrance, and it's not just for show) with very traditional Roman fare. We had zucchini flowers stuffed with sardines and cheese, artichokes with oil and mint, Pasta e Fagioli (don't expect soup, it's literally pasta and beans in a simple tomato sauce), a filet covered in black truffles and the traditional Easter grilled lamb. All superb. Make a reservation or be prepared to wait, which is true of any good restaurant in Rome. Located on Via dei Pastini, 12.
2. Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè - It's not even up for debate, all Romans agree that this is simply the best espresso you can find anywhere in the world. Be ready for a line, but it's worth every second. My wife and I found ourselves stopping by for an after-dinner caffè fix every night at about midnight. Founded in 1938, it still has the original decor intact. Located on Piazza di Sant'Eustachio, 81.
Besides food, Italy is also known for its paper, stationery and general sense of design and craft. There are tons of little stationery, paper and antique print shops around town, but these two are really something special.1. Fabriano Boutique - A stationery and gift shop with a more minimal, modern sensibility. Journals, notebooks, pens, paper and books, they have something for everyone. I purchased a notebook to use as a journal of our trip, and my wife bought the incredible ABC3D popup book from Marion Bataille. Located on Via del Babuino, 173.
2. Cav. Uff. N. Antonio Pacitti Stampe D'Arte, Antiche, Decorative Vedute Di Citta - A small antique print shop full of incredible printed treasures maintained by Antonio Pacitti, this place seems like it's been there since the dawn of time. I walked in to see literally thousands of prints from floor to ceiling, all impeccably arranged by size, category and time period. I can't stress enough how incredible this shop is, Antonio is clearly someone who has spent his life doing something he loves and appreciates greatly. I could've spent days in this place, but in the end I narrowed my selection down to a series of three antique botanical specimen prints, complete with the original artist's debossed marks and serial numbering. Located on Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 59.
So those are my (not so) brief recommendations to get you started, but I'm sure if you're lucky enough to visit The City of Seven Hills, you'll leave with incredible memories and recommendations of your own. Enjoy, and Viva Roma!
A Brief Intermission
I'll be in Italy for the next week or so, checking out Rome, Florence and everything in between. Hopefully I'll be back with some incredible finds, in the meantime, peruse the nearly three years of The Best Part archives for your art + design fix. See you again soon (unless someone can convince my wife that we should stay, of course).
Artiva Design
Genoa, Italy design studio Artiva Design has a fantastic body of work.