Or, loosely translated from gringo to actual Spanish, Alive Snake! As you may have noticed, I've been absent for the past week and was fairly cryptic about my plans. It's sad, but in this day and age you can't go around announcing your vacations or you may return to a burgled home.
In an attempt to get as far from civilization as possible and relax on a deserted beach in the Caribbean on the cheap, my wife and I made the trek to the island of Culebra, a tiny piece of land off the east coast of Puerto Rico. Two commercial flights, one flight on a tiny prop plane, a ferry, a small boat, a hitched ride with a sympathetic stranger and a bit of a hike with all our luggage later, we arrived to this stunningly untouched island with the realization that this is not a place for the faint of heart or ill-equipped. Even in a hotel, you're one step above camping.
So, if you're a bit adventurous and don't mind changing travel plans several times in order to get there and back, you'll be rewarded with some of the most stunning beaches and abundant wildlife you'll ever be lucky enough to lay your eyes on. Just don't expect a five-star resort. Or one star. Or a motel 6. Viva Culebra!
Viva Culebra!
Florence in a Day
I couldn't leave out Florence, the (more peaceful) little sister to Rome. After a few days in Rome, Florence was a welcome sigh of relief. As much as I love both cities, Florence is slightly less tourist-crammed and intense, kind of like the San Francisco to Rome's New York. The entire city is walkable, so you get more of a feel of the city and its unbelievable beauty.
This time I'll be giving you several possibilities of things you could do with a day in Florence, narrowed down from a list of my favorites, and once again, I'll start off with lodging:
Le Stanze di Santa Croce - This quaint little B+B in the heart of Florence, next to the Basilica di Santa Croce (a 13th century Franciscan church) is run by the unbelievably welcoming and helpful Mariangela Catalani, a chef, choir singer, traveler and incredible hostess. Every morning at breakfast, she asks about the previous day, and what you plan to do next, always offering amazing suggestions and advice to make your trip that much better. She also offers cooking classes in the kitchen, and will even escort you to the local market to pick out fresh foods she'll help you prepare for lunch. I can't say enough about her excitement and willingness to do anything to enhance your trip, and the rooms are equally perfect. Located on Via delle Pinzochere, 6.
The restaurant I'm recommending is in this same neighborhood, suggested by Mariangela when we asked for extremely traditional local fare.
Ristorante del Fagioli - I simply can't say enough about this establishment. The second you walk in the door, you know you're in for the experience of a lifetime. Peeking into the kitchen as you walk to your seat, an elderly Italian chef bends over hulking pots of simmering goodness, barking orders to his younger counterparts, who immediately jump to ladle sauces that look like they've been boiling in that same kitchen for centuries. The menu is in Italian only, so we asked the waiter (Antonio in the video above) for suggestions, after which he proceeded to bring out plate after plate of random samples, each tasting better than the last. Ribollita, Involtini, Pappa al Pomodoro! So many dishes I'll be attempting to relive in our home this summer, and likely until we return to del Fagioli. Reservations are required, as they only seat their small dining room a maximum of twice a night (dinner only), don't miss this one or you won't know what you're missing! Located on Corso dei Tintori, 47.
Now for a few suggestions of must-see attractions:
1. The Florence Cathedral and Campanile Tower - Designed by Giotto in the 14th century, the Campanile Tower is a 280-vertical-foot monstrosity next to the Florence Cathedral (a massive beast of its own). Not for the Acrophobic or Chlostrophobic, 414 steps inside the tower wind upward through a narrow tunnel to several viewing decks within the structure, culminating on the roof in the most breathtaking view of the city you can find. Worth the burning thighs and shortness of breath, though you're not going to feel up to much walking after this one! 
2. Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio - an indoor/outdoor market that's been a gathering point for locals since 1873, you can find everything from textiles to produce to meat and fish, including "traditional" fare for the more adventurous of eaters (tripe sandwich, anyone?).
3. Piazzale Michelangelo - Definitely not an attraction to be attempting the same day as the Campanile Tower above, Piazzale Michelangelo offers sweeping views of the river and entire city of Florence, after an invigorating climb of course! Recommended as a "Place for the lovers" by a helpful taxi driver.
4. Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte - Located directly behind Piazzale Michelangelo, the Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte is an 11th century cathedral and cemetery overlooking the whole of Florence. Definitely the spookiest (and coldest) church I entered in my stay in Italy (where there are a whole lot of churches), there was no interior lighting other than that which trickled in from the windows near the roof. You definitely get a sense of how the monks, who have inhabited the building since its construction, experienced places like this before electricity.
5. The Scuola del Cuoio (leather school) of Florence - Located inside the Basilica of Santa Croce, the leather school was formed after WWII by Franciscan monks in order to teach a trade to orphans of the war. Using natural materials and methods handed down by Franciscan artists over centuries, the students are still taught today how to craft leather goods by hand using materials such as eggs, olive oil and gold leaf. These guys aren't messing around. We watched a brief demonstration by one of the students and were awestruck at the ease with which he manipulated the materials to create an intricate pattern in gold leaf. A must see, even if you don't buy anything in the shop, it's worth seeing the process and final product of centuries of knowledge.
6. The town of San Gimignano - A simple bus trip from Florence, San Gimignano instantly transports you to the Tuscany that we all envision when we think of Italy: vineyards, country cottages and tiny stone-walled towns atop hills. Take a walk outside the city walls to be swept into a Disneyesque world of chirping birds, blooming flowers, laundry hung on the line, green grass and endless vineyards. A welcomed breath of fresh air (literally) from the tourist throngs. Also the best shopping of the trip, especially if you're into good wine, olive oil, and handmade ceramics.
Well, that's it folks! My trip to Italy in a nutshell (or you could say, "The Best Parts"). Even if you aren't planning a trip to Italy anytime soon, I hope this inspires the need to get up, get out, and experience the world....someday.
Viva Roma!
Well, I'm finally back from my trip to Italy, and while I can't say I'm super-psyched about being done with vacation, I am excited about sharing a few finds with my readers who may be lucky enough to visit themselves. Italy is a place full of people who are passionate and take great pride in everything they do, as evidenced by the best-dressed taxi drivers in the world. They also take their craftsmanship seriously, which is why anything created in the last 200 years in Italy is considered new. I don't think I encountered a single piece of fiberboard, veneer, linoleum or plastic during my entire trip.
As both the geographical and historical center of Italy, I'm going to start with Rome. Everyone knows the obvious attractions (the Colosseum, Pantheon, Vatican, etc.) so I thought I'd give a few recommendations of some of the less obvious places of interest based on my personal experiences and the advice of some incredibly helpful and enthusiastic locals.
First up; where to stay. My wife and I were given two suggestions by a friend who grew up there, and we actually ended up staying both places on different occasions on our trip. Both of these establishments are fantastic, with incredibly helpful and available staff (and showers that I can fit in, which is rare in Italy!) and both are located within walking distance of most attractions you'll want to see while in Rome.
1. B+B Trevi Roma - A small, family-run B+B with a downstairs restaurant (which is fantastic as well). While located near the tourist-packed Trevi fountain, you can't get a more central location with more peaceful surroundings. By far the largest room we stayed in. Located on Via del Lavatore, 83.
2. Hotel Campo De Fiori - A midsized, modern hotel with all the extras. The room was a bit smaller, but the incredible rooftop terrace with views of all of Rome made it more than worth it. Honestly, I would've stayed in a tent if it came with that terrace. Also incredibly centrally located in the Campo De Fiori neighborhood. Located on Via del Biscione, 6.
When you're settled, you'll undoubtedly be hungry (if you're coming from the states, you'll have been on a plane for at least ten hours) and Rome is one of the best possible places to find yourself with a case of severe hunger. First, a few tips: 1. Never eat in a restaurant on one of the main piazzas of the city. These establishments are generally geared toward the tourist, offering less traditional and authentic fare at a higher price. Get lost on a back alley and find a place with a menu displayed only in Italian, full of dishes you've never heard of. You'll thank me later. 2. Particularly for Americans, service can seem slow, inattentive and downright frustrating. The constant checking in we're used to from our servers would be insulting and rude in Italy. Get used to flagging down servers for the check, because they'll assume you're enjoying your meal and present company, letting you sit hours on end with nothing but empty dishes at your table. Once you've acclimated yourself to the Italian pace of life, however, you'll wish that Americans viewed the process of cooking and eating the same way. Beyond that, I have a couple of recommendations, but truthfully I didn't have a single meal I wasn't thrilled with. Follow the above suggestions and you really can't go wrong. (Oh, and a bottle of good local wine is like 5 US Dollars...incredible).
1. Trattoria "Antonio" - A tiny space (so small that they store produce and meats literally anywhere they can find a spot, including in the entrance, and it's not just for show) with very traditional Roman fare. We had zucchini flowers stuffed with sardines and cheese, artichokes with oil and mint, Pasta e Fagioli (don't expect soup, it's literally pasta and beans in a simple tomato sauce), a filet covered in black truffles and the traditional Easter grilled lamb. All superb. Make a reservation or be prepared to wait, which is true of any good restaurant in Rome. Located on Via dei Pastini, 12.
2. Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè - It's not even up for debate, all Romans agree that this is simply the best espresso you can find anywhere in the world. Be ready for a line, but it's worth every second. My wife and I found ourselves stopping by for an after-dinner caffè fix every night at about midnight. Founded in 1938, it still has the original decor intact. Located on Piazza di Sant'Eustachio, 81.
Besides food, Italy is also known for its paper, stationery and general sense of design and craft. There are tons of little stationery, paper and antique print shops around town, but these two are really something special.
1. Fabriano Boutique - A stationery and gift shop with a more minimal, modern sensibility. Journals, notebooks, pens, paper and books, they have something for everyone. I purchased a notebook to use as a journal of our trip, and my wife bought the incredible ABC3D popup book from Marion Bataille. Located on Via del Babuino, 173.
2. Cav. Uff. N. Antonio Pacitti Stampe D'Arte, Antiche, Decorative Vedute Di Citta - A small antique print shop full of incredible printed treasures maintained by Antonio Pacitti, this place seems like it's been there since the dawn of time. I walked in to see literally thousands of prints from floor to ceiling, all impeccably arranged by size, category and time period. I can't stress enough how incredible this shop is, Antonio is clearly someone who has spent his life doing something he loves and appreciates greatly. I could've spent days in this place, but in the end I narrowed my selection down to a series of three antique botanical specimen prints, complete with the original artist's debossed marks and serial numbering. Located on Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 59.
So those are my (not so) brief recommendations to get you started, but I'm sure if you're lucky enough to visit The City of Seven Hills, you'll leave with incredible memories and recommendations of your own. Enjoy, and Viva Roma!
Day Trip: Manhattan's Lower West
As you may or may not have noticed, I was in NYC last week enjoying some brief R&R with my wife (am I the only person who considers NYC rest and relaxation??). We spent the weekend stumbling our way around Manhattan and Brooklyn, enjoying some of the obvious tourist destinations and avoiding others. While it may seem impossible, or even ridiculous, to plan a day trip to a place where there's easily a year's worth of things to do, I've created this simple walking tour that combines a few of my favorite things about a city with everything.
In order to get away from the hordes of tourists and experience a bit of the quintessential New York, complete with brownstones and little neighborhood shops and restaurants, I've assembled a walking tour of bits of several neighborhoods, including Chelsea, the Meatpacking District, the West Village and Greenwich Village.
Beginning at the Chelsea Market, you might as well skip meals for a few days before you start this trip. Filling the entire city block between 9th and 10th Avenues and 15th and 16th streets, the market is packed with amazing food vendors and restaurants. We started our day with sticky buns from Amy's Bakery and cappuccinos from 9th Street Espresso, working off the sugar/caffeine buzz on the walk that follows.
Leaving the Chelsea Market on the 10th Avenue side of the building, you can now enter the Highline on the corner of 10th and 16th. A former elevated train railway, the Highline has been repurposed as an urban park that currently stretches from Gansevoort Street to 20th Street, with plans to extend it all the way to 30th. Enjoy the views for yourself by walking south among the natural plantings and urban landscapes until exiting at Gansevoort St.
After leaving the Highline, continue to follow the map below by heading east along Gansevoort until it's end at 13th Street. Make a right on 13th, and another right on 8th Avenue, which you'll follow until you reach Bleecker Street. Along Bleecker, you'll get a sense of what the West Village has to offer, with a plethora of shops ranging from antiques to clothing to music, you can get your fill of shopping in a quaint neighborhood setting. Next you'll make a right on Grove, a left on Hudson, and a right on Barrow, which you'll take to the Hudson River, following the water south for one block to Morton, where you'll make a left to return to the tree-lined streets of the Village. Among the brownstones and cobblestone streets, you can almost picture walking along with the Cosbys or Carrie Bradshaw, depending on your television preferences.
Continuing our tour on Morton, you will head east to Hudson, where you'll make a right, followed by a left on Leroy St. and another left on Bedford. Making a right on Morton again, you'll reach a row of restaurants and shops that line Bleecker Street, where between 6th and 7th, you'll find a gem among the many restaurants in John's Pizzeria. A New York institution, John's has been in business since 1929, and since 1935 in the same location. With graffiti-inscribed booths and a tile-covered coal-fired brick oven, you know the pizza will be amazing. Fill a bowl with their sauce and eat it with a spoon amazing. Trust me, don't skip this stop unless you somehow dislike amazing NY-style pizza. Or lack a soul.
Walking south on Bleecker to Cornelia, take a left and then head right on West 4th Street into Washington Square Park. Filled with NYU students on their way to class, old men arguing over chess, nannies walking their collective children and hipsters on fixies, take a seat at an open bench and enjoy the people watching in all its New York glory.
And thus concludes the TBP walking tour of Manhattan's Lower West, feel free to download and print the map below (red denotes the Highline route, and green marks the street-level walking route). All in all, the tour takes up a few hours, depending on your pace and shopping tendencies. If you're feeling adventurous, or have a full day to kill, continue to head east from Washington Square Park and make a right on Broadway. Head south into SoHo from there, where you'll find about ten straight blocks of all the shopping you can handle (including a couple of my favorites, MUJI and Dean & Deluca). So the next time you have half a day to kill between connecting flights at LaGuardia, or want to skip out on a mind-numbing convention, consider a stroll through the winding, quiet (for NY) streets of the West Village.
Day Trip: Savannah
As you may have noticed by the absence of posts last week, I took a brief vacation to unwind a bit with family at the beach and explore Savannah with my wife. While I could elaborate greatly on everything to be experienced in the beautiful city that is Savannah, I thought it might be more helpful to my readers to boil everything down to one simple day trip in which "the best parts" of Savannah could be experienced in a single day.
Thus begins the newest feature of The Best Part....Day Trips! Periodically, I'll add another city or region to be explored in a simple day trip that packs the highlights of each location into a nice, easily-paced day. Even if you're just passing through, or have an extra day at the end of a business trip, you can fully experience what makes each location what it is.
So without further rambling, let's visit Savannah!
Your first task is to purchase the "This 'N That" tour book, available in any number of locations around town from Savannah Fun Tours for $25. I know, this sounds ridiculously cheesy, but Savannah has quite the history, and you're going to want to hear the stories, legends and rumors that abound in this town. (If you're in the mood for breakfast, purchase your copy at Clary's Cafe, made famous by Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil as the gathering spot for the book's characters, and a favorite breakfast spot for locals.)
There are dozens of tour buses, carriages, and even trolleys that drive around the historical areas of Savannah, hauling groups of tourists and spewing facts. But how much can you learn about a place by driving by it at 25 mph? Savannah is an easily walkable city, and this book guides you around the historical areas of Savannah at your own pace, delivering the same facts and stories about this great city while allowing you to explore and make your own stops at the fantastic shops and restaurants along the way.
The first of these shops you must visit on your walking tour (located on the Madison Square stop of the tour) is ShopSCAD, the gallery/shop of current and past Savannah College of Art & Design students that is packed full of incredible works of art, ranging from paintings to jewelry to post cards. I guarantee you will find something you absolutely must have. (I found a beautiful mixed media piece by Anna Frischknecht).
All this walking will likely leave you famished, and if you only eat once in Savannah, it must be at Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room. A former boardinghouse that has served traditional southern fare to the working class of Savannah since 1943, Mrs. Wilkes' now only serves lunch from 11-2 on Monday through Friday. They don't take reservations, and you will most likely wait in line for at least an hour. The reward for your patience is being led to your community table, already covered in what seems like 5o bowls, plates and platters of incredible southern food that puts even the most elaborate Thanksgiving feast to shame. Everything is passed around the table family style, and the experience leaves you feeling like you've just experienced a truly authentic bit of the old south, including cleaning up your own dishes. 
With a full belly and gluttonous grin, it's time to work off some of those calories and do some shopping. Heading down to Broughton St., you'll find some of the best interior and design shops available anywhere, along with clothing shops ranging from American Apparel to Marc Jacobs. The first stop you should make (at 320 West Broughton) is @Home Vintage General, a shop full of incredible papers, stationery, furniture, jewelry, antiques and all sorts of random vintage-inspired ephemera. Think of it as a more authentic version of Anthropologie.
Continuing our tour of Broughton St., (at 36 W Broughton), you'll find one of the most eclectic and inspiring shops I've ever encountered in The Paris Market and Brocante, a massive shop full of incredible finds from around the world including vintage furniture, clothing, lighting, and literally anything else you can think of. Hundreds of examples of rare antique taxidermied animals? Check. Ancient asian pottery found on the seafloor by treasure hunters? Check. You'll feel a bit like Indiana Jones visiting this shop, and the amazing design of the displays alone are worth checking out. 
My fellow fans of Knoll, Eames, and Saarinen must end their tour of Broughton St. (at 24 E Broughton) at the Mecca of modernism in Savannah, 24e. This massive warehouse space is packed with all the greats, and those of you with the cash to spend may leave with a shipment of Barcelona chairs, Saarinen tables and Florence Knoll settees. I, however, left with drool stains. While my taste may be champagne, my budget is champagne of beers. 
If you're also in the mood for a drink after the realization that you can't afford the modern appointments of your dreams, the final stop on your tour should be at Moon River Brewing Company. A historical building with some stories of its own (you can read them on the menu), Moon River is home to an incredible selection of in-house brewed beers, as well as some fantastic food (if you can bear to eat after your visit to Mrs. Wilkes'). I, having thrown the normal, sensible diet out the window the second my vacation began, ordered fried green tomatoes, a pint of Savannah Fest beer and this deadly-delicious concoction of crab and cheese they call the Lowcountry Crab Melt:
...And thus concludes our Day Trip guide to Savannah. A city full of history and mystery, Savannah is just one of those places every American must visit. While avoiding the throngs of lemming tourists may prove difficult at times, I think any Savannah native would agree that this quick tour does their fair city justice. All that's left to do now is get out there and enjoy Savannah!
